By Katherine P. Cox

Wineries/Cantinas

Following is a list of wineries and cantinas (tasting rooms) and their contact information. Cantinas are open to the public, but not all producers conduct public tours of their wineries; those that do are by reservation only. Be sure to contact the producers in advance to plan your visit.

In Barolo:

In Castiglioni Falletto:

In La Morra:

In Monforte d’Alba:

In Serralunga d’Alba:

I am a huge fan of grilling in the winter. It’s a great way to free up some kitchen space and cook some great food during the holidays.

Chestnuts

• 2–3 lb whole chestnuts in the shell
• Bourbon Cider Reduction (recipe follows)
• Salty Maple Sugar (recipe follows)

1. Preheat the grill to medium.

2. Score an X in the bottom of each chestnut. Grill over medium heat for 15 to 20 minutes, turning frequently until the scored shells open.

3. Remove from the grill. Peel the chestnuts and serve warm on a platter with Bourbon Cider Reduction and Salty Maple Sugar.

Bourbon Cider Reduction

• 1 quart apple cider
• 1 cup bourbon
• 3/4 cup sugar

1. Put all the ingredients in a large saucepan, stir to combine, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

2. Reduce the heat to very low and simmer until the cider reduces and thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 1 to 1-1/2 hours.

Salty Maple Sugar

• 8 oz jar maple sugar*
• 2 Tbsp coarse salt

Mix the sugar and salt together.

Not just for chestnuts, the Salty Maple Sugar’s sweet/salty flavor goes well with roast pork, salmon, and many other dishes.

* Maple sugar is available at local maple farms, specialty stores, and online.

by Faren MacDonald

At seven o’clock, the full January moon, sheathed in a fine haze, still holds its just-risen orange hue. A group of hikers who have gathered in the Mount Tom parking lot off Prosper Road use the moon’s glow to fasten their snowshoes. We switch on our headlamps to peer at each other while making introductions, shaking gloved hands as we await the hike leader, who has gone ahead to prepare our destination cabin for our arrival by starting a fire in the woodstove.

Full-moon, winter-night hikes are not a uniquely Vermont activity, but the very conditions that make some Vermonters dream of long summer days make these hikes ideal. The canopy of leaves that typically blocks out the moon has fallen away; it lies covered by a mantle of snow that reflects the moon’s silver light, illuminating the bare woods. The long nights mean that an after-dinner hike can end at a reasonable time. And there are no pesky biting insects.

Taking in Winter’s Beauty

All is quiet under the stars except for the dry snow that squeaks underfoot. In the woods, hikers have stashed headlamps to preserve night vision. With no clouds and new snow, we have enough natural light to see our shadows walking before us to the cabin on the other side of Mount Tom. With the temperature hovering in the lower 20s, we’ll appreciate the crackling fire in the cabin’s cast-iron stove when we arrive. The hikers are packing in snacks to share and hot drinks.

Most are wearing three layers of clothing to block the winter chill. By the time we reach the Pogue, a 14-acre pond perched near the summit that has frozen and looks like a large, smooth bed of snow ringed by bare trees, many hikers have loosened scarves and unzipped jackets.

With landmarks hidden beneath the snow, the winter night reveals an undiscovered path. The terrain is easy for this hike—tonight is about winter’s beauty, not the physical challenge of hiking. Full-moon hikes are also about the destination: a valley full of twinkling lights, a field awash with the stars and moon, and a cozy cabin.

A Warm Reward

At the cabin’s door, we shed our snowshoes and troop inside. We light a dozen candles to create a welcoming glow and throw a log on the fire. We move benches closer to the warmth, and gloves come off as we pass around cheese and crackers and start to chat. “I almost stayed home,” says one woman. The others nod, knowing they would usually be watching television, helping with homework, or already be in bed on such a frosty night.

The fire dies as quickly as our drinks cool. At nine o’clock, we blow out the candles and pack up everything we have brought. We pull on our gloves, step outside, and put our snowshoes back on. The cold feels doubled after the warmth of the cabin. The last person out shuts the door, and we head out under a half-dollar-sized moon.

As we retrace our steps under this clear Vermont night, I cannot help but appreciate the transformative powers of a full moon and a blanket of snow. Tonight’s hikers have gained a new experience that is offered only during winter nights of rare beauty.

Try a Night Hike

This winter on a full-moon night (December 10, January 9, and February 7) dress warmly and take to the trails.

Easy: Pick a trail up Mount Peg or to the top of Mount Tom.

Moderate: Follow the Appalachian Trail from the Route 4 parking lot to Kent Pond, or hike the Deer Leap Trail to the overview.

Expert: Ascend Ascutney Mountain via the Auto Road. Stop at the parking lot or continue to the summit tower. Another option is to hike Killington via the Bucklin Trail. Stop at the Coolidge Lodge or ascend carefully to the icy peak.

Standing high on a bluff overlooking the mighty St. Lawrence River, Fairmont Le Château Frontenac is not merely a hotel located in the heart of Old Québec, it is the heart of it. At Fairmont Le Château Frontenac, guests are guaranteed a memorable and inspiring stay in one of the world’s most beautiful—and walkable—cities.
Offering luxurious, newly renovated guestrooms, wireless high speed internet available throughout the hotel, exquisite dining experiences designed by renowned Chef Jean Soulard, and a distinctive European charm, this stately luxury hotel stands above historic Old Québec, designated a United Nations World Heritage Site.

An Outstanding History

For more than a century, Fairmont Le Château Frontenac luxury hotel in Quebec City has been the true-life castle of many people’s dreams. Everyone from the young to the old, music to film stars, sports personalities to political figures, enjoys discovering this unique Quebec City luxury resort and delights in returning again and again. Countless personalities have graced Fairmont Le Château Frontenac with their presence, including King George VI and Queen Elizabeth, Princess Grace of Monaco, Chiang-Kai-Shek, Charles de Gaulle, Ronald Reagan, François Mitterrand, Prince Andrew, Lady Sarah Ferguson, Charles Lindberg, Alfred Hitchcock, and Montgomery Clift. In 1944, Fairmont Le Château Frontenac became the action center of the Quebec Conferences of World War II, which involved US President Franklin D. Roosevelt, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, and Canadian Prime Minister William Lyon Mackenzie King.

Ring in the New Year

Spend a special New Year’s Eve at the Le Château Frontenac with their Hip New Year’s Eve package. Welcome the New Year in a fun and hip way this year with the popular 80s band Karma Kameleons!

Package Includes:

• Accommodation for one night*
• New Year’s Eve cocktail (two drinks and dessert buffet) in the Salon Frontenac with entertainment by Karma Kameleons band
• New Year’s Day brunch in the ballroom

Availability

This package is available on December 31, 2011, subject to availability.

Rates:

• Rates starting from $669 CAD per night**, for two adults.
• Deposit/Cancellation Policy:
• Prior to December 15, 2011, cancellation can be made without penalty. After December 15, 2011, a charge equal to the complete package price will be applied.

*Room upgrades are available at an additional charge.

**These prices are on a per-night basis in double occupancy. Subject to availability. Gratuities on meals included, taxes extra.

Tickets for the New Year’s Eve Celebration with the Karma Kameleons including 2 drinks and dessert buffet can also be purchased separately for $99 per person. Taxes and gratuity not included. To purchase your ticket, please call 418-692-3861.

In town for the biggest Winter Carnaval in the world between January 27 and February 12, 2012? Fall under the spell of the Quebecers’ warm welcome and come have fun with Bonhomme Carnaval with our Winter Carnaval package!

Awards & Accolades:

• CAA/AAA Four Diamond Award
• Four Green Keys rating, Hotel Association of Canada
• RéserVert (sustainable) designation, Hotel Association of Quebec
• 2011 T+L 500: World’s Best hotels, Travel + Leisure magazine
• 2011 Condé Nast Traveller Reader’s Choice Awards, Best resort
• 2010 Reader’s Choice Awards, Condé Nast Traveller magazine
• 2010 Expedia Insiders’ Select™ hotel, one of Expedia’s Top Ranked properties!
• Quebec City named 12th Top destination in the World & 6th in North America, Condé Nast Traveller Reader’s Choice Awards

Dog sledding with Braeburn Siberians

by Meg Brazill

It’s not easy keeping up with Katharine Bennett and her husband Alex MacLennan, let alone their team of Siberian huskies. It’s a perfect winter morning, and we’re on top of a mountain along Vermont and New Hampshire’s shared border. On today’s two-hour dogsled ride, Kathy says we’ll cross through a nature preserve, traveling a series of forested trails that open into a meadow.

Kathy is unabashed about her love for her dogs—and for the outdoors. “There are so many different kinds of snow conditions,” Kathy explains. “If you’re running on a packed trail with two to four inches of cold, fresh, untracked powder—close your eyes. All you can hear is the breathing of the dogs, and the quiet hiss of the runners in the snow.” “It’s a little bit like sailing,” Alex adds, “and hearing the lapping of the waves and the creaking of the boat.” They both agree it’s even better at night, with or without a moon.

I try to imagine how spectacular this already beautiful place would be at night, but the dogs bring me back to the present. Their excitement is contagious, and I don’t put up any resistance. As Kathy and Alex harness the dogs and hook them into the team, the dogs are turning back and looking, pawing, rolling in the snow, sitting, jumping, standing, climbing on one another, playing, and shaking their coats and their heads.

They are spectacular animals. Their thick, heavy winter coats range in color from white to light honey to caramel to every shade of gray and black. Their markings, especially on their faces, read like a cross between war paint and the carefully applied makeup of a young starlet. A sea of blue eyes sizes me up, but there are plenty of brown eyes, too, and a couple of dogs have the distinctive blue-eye, brown-eye pairing. “The Siberian husky has a magical, even mystical and primitive quality that is captivating,” Kathy says. Someone once told her that “a Siberian husky is like a potato chip. You can’t have just one.”

How It Started

For Kathy and Alex, it all began when Kathy’s daughter Elizabeth, who was a fourth grader at the time, wanted to learn how to dogsled. Elizabeth convinced her mother of her commitment to this idea and they found a mentor and sled dogs she could learn from. Elizabeth dove in, doing everything from cleaning kennels to grooming to driving. Kathy was impressed by her daughter’s hard work and devotion to the dogs. “In the summer of 2004 we adopted two trained Siberian husky leaders so they could train us—literally.” They soon acquired three more dogs and Elizabeth began racing. Braeburn Siberians was born. The name comes from the Scottish words “brae” and “burn,” for the hill and stream next to the kennel—in recognition of Kathy and Alex’s Scottish heritage, and after the checkpoint “Braeburn” in the great Yukon Quest 1,200-mile dog sled race. The race holds special meaning for Alex and Kathy; it was run by their initial mentors, Ann and George Cook of Alka’siber Siberians.

Kathy became the handler, the pit crew, and cheerleader. After that first winter, they acquired enough dogs so they both could race. “It was a mother-daughter team, “ Kathy says, “but we couldn’t have done it without Alex.” On her birthday in March 2006, Kathy raced for the first time. “And I was smitten,” she says. “It was one of the top 10 highs of my life.” By then, they were up to a dozen dogs. “I was addicted,” Kathy says, laughing.

They began breeding to build their team, selling some puppies to approved homes. Alex provided critical backup support and then began running the dogs in 2008-09. “Initially I started going along for the ride,” Alex says. “But you begin to develop a connection. They become a part of your life; you become a part of theirs.”

Hold On Tight

This morning, Kathy and Alex move among the dogs, making adjustments to the lines, talking, coaxing, encouraging, and disciplining. “There is an interdependent relationship with the dogs,” Kathy says. “It’s very essential,” Alex says. “Imagine a 2 am training run and you’re 20 miles from civilization. It doesn’t get more basic than that.”

They never raise their voices to the dogs; the human team delivers a quiet confidence, creating calm in the midst of controlled pandemonium. I listen in on their patter, hearing the dogs called by name: Alec, Asia, Blaze, Jasper, Rain, Skye . . . It’s like listening to Santa on Christmas Eve calling to the reindeer.

I stamp my feet to stay warm, watching these amazing dogs. This morning, one thing is clear: they can’t wait to run. The dogs are paired up in a particular order and the team leaders are in position. They know the drill. The yelping has turned into full-on barking. It’s not a quiet morning anymore.

I have the option of sitting in the sled, but decide instead to stand on the runners to get a vicarious feel for what it’s like to drive the team. Kathy and Alex have special tour sleds designed to carry one driver and two passengers.  “Hold tight,” Kathy reminds me. “The sled can jerk when we start.”

She calls out, “Everybody ready?” The dogs get into position. “Let’s go!” And we’re off! The dogs leap forward and . . . the sudden silence leaves me breathless. It’s pure magic. We are running, picking up speed, moving in unison. I’m alert to the movements of the sled, looking ahead to bumps and curves as the team seems to literally fly over the terrain. The ssshhhh, ssshhhh, shooosh of the sled runners is the only sound. I prepare for a downhill turn, holding on as the sled curves. It was just as Kathy and Alex had described. “You have to be prepared and in control” at all times, even when you’re only a passenger.

Two hours later, I’m a little worried I might have gotten the Siberian bug too—I love these animals! Kathy reassures me that I can come visit their dogs any time. These days, Elizabeth is almost off to college and it’s just Kathy and Alex—and their 25 dogs. Kathy races two or three times a year, but it’s no longer the focus. “It’s not about the competition,” Alex says, “For us, it’s the camaraderie.” Their focus of activity has shifted to tours. Their main purpose is to have “a kennel of happy, well-trained dogs that work well with each other and work well with us,” Kathy says. “It’s really all about the dogs and the joy of sledding with them out in the countryside—and sharing the experience with others.”

If Kathy could have it her way, they’d do it year round. “Sometimes in the middle of the summer I put on a video. The best view in the world is watching 12 dogs in front of you.”

Tours

Dog sled touring with Braeburn Siberians can be two hours or a full day wilderness adventure. They’ve done tours for special events including an 80th birthday celebration, and one for a marriage proposal. Lots of older couples take tours . . . and lots of young couples, too. Families with children who are old enough to stand on the runners also enjoy the longer adventures. The children especially love bonding with the dogs.  Many of their rides are for people who received a gift certificate for a new experience rather than another “thing.”

This year, in addition to their two- and four-hour excursions in the wilderness, they’re offering half-hour and hour-long tours along the Connecticut River through Great River Outfitters in Windsor, Vermont. Kathy says the shorter tours are particularly attractive to families with younger children.

If You Go:

• Dress warmly in layers, including hats, gloves, and proper boots.
• Bring a water bottle.
• Wear sunglasses.
• Don’t forget your camera!

Frequently Asked Questions

Answered by Katharine Bennett of Braeburn Siberians

How many dogs are needed to run sled?

• Four to 12. We typically run 8 to 14.

What color are Siberians’ eyes? How much do they weigh?

• Brown, blue, or amber. They can have two eyes with the same color, or each eye a different color (bi-eyed), or two colors in the same eye (part-eye). The dogs are typically in the 40-pound range.

When do puppies join the team? How old can they run?

• Nine to 12 months, although initial training begins at 4 to 6 months. They can run until they are about 10 to 14 years, although most will want to run forever—it’s their love in life!

How does a dog become a leader?

• Like people, some dogs love to lead, some prefer to follow, and some have leader potential that needs to be drawn out. Leaders need to be problem solvers, decision makers, and good listeners. They need to be steady and tuned into the rest of the team, but prepared to make the final call alone. The team follows the leaders and the leaders work closely with the musher through voice command and a relationship built on mutual trust and respect. Most dogs in a team are a leader at some level; main/trail leader, command leader, or leader-in-training. Leaders can be male or female.

How do you tell them where to go?

• By voice command and a working relationship between driver and leaders.

How far and fast can they run?

• A Siberian in good condition runs 5 to 15 miles per hour seemingly forever, depending on conditions and terrain, day or night with a preference for cooler temperatures (-10 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit). Temperatures can get too warm (above 50 degrees), but never too cold!

Back-to-School Lunches & Snacks—It’s Elementary! Nutrition can be delicious.

by Elaine Ambrose

To get kids to consume those thoughtfully prepared lunches, remember the basics: keep cold foods cold and hot foods hot. Another one: kids like foods in small compartments or containers—think Bento-style lunch boxes.

Kids love fruit, especially if it’s ABC (already been cut). Lemon juice keeps peeled and sliced apples, peaches, and pears from turning brown. Kids may not have enough time at lunch to peel an orange and eat it—pack easy-peel clementines or mineolas. Easy travelers include bananas, plus grapes, melon, kiwi, and berries in containers. For economy, flavor, and nutrition, pick seasonal fruits.

Another basic: veggies may require subterfuge! Pack baby carrots, raw snap peas, and string beans with hummus or salsa for dipping. (Make your own dip: process drained cannellini with a little olive oil and seasonings.) Salads with wagon wheel or bowtie pasta, chick peas, and bite-sized veggies are also a hit.

Say cheese! Cubes, slices, strings, or little rounds wrapped in bright red—kids like it all. While you’re in the dairy aisle, pick up a few yogurts. Hard cook eggs on the weekend to add protein to lunches. Offer favorite sandwich fillings in mini whole-wheat bagels, wraps, or small pitas. A supermarket rotisserie chicken makes many tasty lunches.

After school, kids crave frosty smoothies on warm autumn afternoons. Have a baggie of peeled banana chunks in your freezer. Toss a few in a blender with milk or orange juice; add berries, mango, or cantaloupe, and blend.

by Elaine Ambrose

Button up—winter’s coming! Make a list and head outside (while you still can). Clear leaves and vegetation from foundations, and seal cracks where critters can enter—mice need only a dime-sized door! Check sills for dry rot and pests, then trim branches hanging too close to the house.

Good-bye lawnmower, hello snowblower. Drain the gas from the mower and tune up the blower. Got snow shovels? Ice melt? Roof rake? Zip up windows and doors with weather-stripping or caulk. Clean out gutters and downspouts. Drain garden hoses, turn off outdoor spigots, and insulate exposed plumbing pipes.

Got a fireplace or woodstove? Have chimneys cleaned to avoid fires from creosote buildup, then screen them to avoid rodent and bird buildup. Stack firewood away from your home’s sidewalls. Inside, check stovepipe connections and fireplace dampers. Where the temperature drops below freezing, add attic insulation to prevent ice dams on your roof.

Have an HVAC professional inspect and clean your heating system, then stock up on furnace filters—and change them monthly. Carbon monoxide detectors are lifesavers; install one near your furnace. For hot-water radiators, bleed the valves: open, then close when water appears. Replace batteries in smoke detectors and fire extinguishers older than 10 years.

If you have ceiling fans, reverse the blades’ direction—clockwise pushes rising warm air downward.

Be ready for power outages with plumbers’ candles, matches, and flashlights. Then curl up with a good book and a mug of hot chocolate!